Ripple Shoulder Bag

This pattern was designed by Alexandra of EyeLoveKnots, exclusively for The Stitchin’ Mommy.

After working my Ripple Tote Bag, I had some leftover t-shirt yarn and decided I wanted to make a clutch from it. Well, as you can see, my bag came out a little bigger than a clutch, but that’s quite alright! It’s a great size for carrying your tablet, or just the essentials and throw the straps over your shoulder.

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Materials:

50 yards of Super Bulky T-Shirt Yarn – I used Premier Yarn’s Craft-Tee Yarn in Yellow and Dark Gray
N15/10mm Hook
Tapestry Needle for Sewing on Buttons – I used a #18
Small Crochet Hook for Weaving in Ends – I used a C/2.5mm
2 Size 10 Snap Buttons – I used Black Brass by Dritz
Small Amount of Thread Buttons – I used Hobby Lobby’s #10 Crochet Thread artiste 100% Mercerized Egyptian Cotton in Cloud (Light Gray)

Abbreviations:

SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
TC – Triple Crochet
sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together
sc3tog – Single Crochet Three Stitches Together

To work a sc3tog: Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

dc3tog – Double Crochet Three Stitches Together

To work a dc3tog: Yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull through (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Gauge:

10 HDC by 8 Rows = 6″ by 7″

Finished Size:

10″ Wide by 7″ Tall, excluding strap. 22″ Tall with strap. Tote will fall just above hip level.

Notes:

I worked up this purse in just over an hour, including my strap and buttons.
The beginning chain 2 counts as a stitch in the ripple pattern.
Join to the top of the beginning chain, unless otherwise stated.
To change colors, I worked in a non-traditional way. I completed the round by joining with the same color, and then pulled in the new color, chained two and pulled the old color tight so the first loop wasn’t noticeable. I carried my unused yarn up so I would have less ends to weave in later. You can fasten off at the end of each round, and weave in if you choose but the t-shirt yarn is difficult to weave in and out.
This was my first time using the Craft Tee yarn. The Gray was very soft and stretchy, while the yellow was tough with hardly any stretch. I also found the Gray thickness to be very inconsistent, while the yellow was the same throughout. Keep this in mind if purchasing t-shirt yarn as you may need to adjust the number of stitches to get the size you want.
Weaving in ends will be done with the smallest crochet hook and fingers – since weaving the thick yarn with an embroidery needle is difficult. You will have the same result and it will be easier than trying to fight with the needle and yarn.

Instructions:

R1: With Yellow, Chain 20. SC into the 2nd chain, and each chain across. (19 SC)
R2 – 3: Chain 1, turn. SC into the first SC, and each SC across. (19 SC)
R4: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each of the next 18 SCs, work 1 SC down the side of the piece, work 19 SCs along the opposite side of the beginning foundation chain, work 1 SC up the side of the piece and join to the first SC. (40 SC)
R5: Chain 3 (doesn’t count as a stitch). TC into the 1st SC, DC into the next 2 SCs, HDC into the next SC, SC into the next 3 SCs, HDC into the next SC, DC into the next 2 SCs, (TC into the next SC, DC into the next 2 SCs, HDC into the next SC, SC into the next 3 SCs, HDC into the next SC, DC into the next 2 SCs) 3x. Join. (40 stitches)
R6: In Gray, Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches, (3 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches) 3x, DC into the 1st stitch. Join. (40 DCs)
R7: In Yellow, Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches, (3 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches) 3x, DC into the 1st stitch. Join. (40 DCs)
R8: In Gray, Chain 2. DC into the 1st 4 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches, (3 DC into the next stitch, DC into the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, DC into the next 3 stitches) 3x, DC into the 1st stitch. Join. (40 DCs)
R9: In Yellow, Chain 1. SC into the 1st 2 stitches, HDC into the next stitch, DC into the next 2 stitches, TC into the next stitch, DC into the next 2 stitches, HDC into the next stitch, (SC into the next 3 stitches, HDC into the next stitch, DC into the next 2 stitches, TC into the next stitch, DC into the next 2 stitches, HDC into the next stitch) 3x, SC into the last stitch. Join to the 1st SC. (40 stitches)
R10: Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch, and each stitch around. Join to the 1st SC. (40 SC)

Begin Flap. The remaining rounds are worked in rows, not rounds with the exception of Round 21.

R11: Chain 1. SC into the 1st 20 SCs. Slip stitch into the same stitch as the last.
R12: Chain 1, turn. Skip the slip stitch, sc2tog, SC into the next 16 SCs, sc2tog. (18 SCs)
R13 – 15: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across. (18 SC)
R16: Chain 1, turn. sc2tog, SC into the next 14 SCs, sc2tog. (16 SC)
R17: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across. (16 SC)
R18: Chain 1, turn. sc2tog, SC into the next 12 SCs, sc2tog. (14 SC)
R19 – 20: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across. (14 SC)
R21, Edging: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 13 SCs, 2 SC into the last SC, work 8 SCs down the side of the piece, SC into the next 20 SCs along the front, work 8 SCs up the side of the piece, work 1 SC into the first SC and join. (52 SCs)
Fasten Off, and Weave in Ends – I did so with my small crochet hook.

Strap:

I worked two chains to double my strap – one in each color. You can add as many as you like. Attach yarn at the point where the flap and bag connect. Chain 100. Slip stitch to the same point on the other side. Fasten off, and weave in ends.
*If you are working your strap in one color, you can work the 100 chains, slip stitch to the other side and then begin again without fastening off.

Buttons:

I tried several different buttons on my purse. My favorite was an elongated one that I found in a floral pattern, but I felt like it was a little too much work to close the bag, so I ripped them out and went with the snap buttons.

I sewed my buttons on Row 8 of the purse, and the respective spot on Row 21 of the flap, aiming for the second stitch from each end. You can place just one to the center if you like, or the two on the ends plus the one on the center. It’s all about personal preference.

I threaded my needle, doubling the strands and tying a knot at the end – this knot is important to hold the strands together and to catch on the t-shirt yarn. First, I weaved my thread under a few stitches to secure. When I sewed onto the purse, I went through the whole piece as it didn’t matter to me if the thread showed through to the other side, but when I sewed onto the flap, I worked through only one layer of the stitches so the thread wouldn’t should through on the front side of the flap. Alternatively, you can sew through the whole piece and then add some decorative buttons to cover the thread.

Please feel free to make and sell your own Ripple Shoulder Bag, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead. DO NOT publish photos of my process, please.

Alexandra started her crafting adventure with needlepoint on plastic canvas nine years ago, making anything she could think of from masks for school plays to pictures frames and small trinkets. Two years ago she jumped head first into crocheting and jewelry making, and her blogging journey as EyeLoveKnots, named in honor of family members affected by Retinoblastoma, a cancer of the eye. You can find more information about Retinoblastoma at Eye Cancer MD. See more from Alexandra on her Facebook page, Ravelry, and Etsy shop.